1. The Assessment Visit
Before any work begins, a technician will visit your home to evaluate the situation. This assessment typically takes 30 to 60 minutes and covers several important details that will determine how your system gets designed.
The technician will inspect your foundation type (slab-on-grade, basement, crawl space, or a combination), look at the soil conditions beneath and around your home, and identify the best location for the suction point. They will also plan the pipe routing path from the basement or crawl space to the exterior, and determine where the fan will be mounted.
During this visit, you should ask questions. Where will the pipe exit the house? Will it be visible from the front? How will the system affect your landscaping? A good installer will walk you through the plan and make sure you are comfortable with the proposed setup before scheduling the installation day.
The assessment is also when the installer checks for potential complications. Things like finished basements, low crawl spaces, French drains, sump pits, and HVAC ductwork all affect the installation approach. Identifying these early prevents surprises on installation day.
2. Day-of Timeline
On installation day, the crew will arrive with all the materials and equipment needed to complete the job. Most residential installations take between 4 and 6 hours. Here is what a typical day looks like.
Crew Arrival and Setup
The team arrives, lays down protective coverings on floors and work areas, and brings materials inside. They will confirm the installation plan with you one more time.
Core Drilling
This is the loudest part. A core drill cuts a hole through the concrete slab (usually 4 to 5 inches in diameter). The dust is managed with a vacuum attachment, but some noise is unavoidable.
Sub-Slab Preparation
Material beneath the slab is excavated to create a small pit that allows airflow. This is where the suction will draw radon-laden soil gas from under your foundation.
Pipe Routing and Installation
PVC pipe is routed from the suction point up through the house and out to the exterior. This often runs through closets, utility rooms, or along exterior walls to minimize visibility.
Fan Mounting and Electrical
The radon fan is installed in the attic or on the exterior of the home. Electrical connections are made to power the fan continuously.
Sealing and Testing
All penetrations, cracks, and gaps are sealed. The system is turned on and checked for proper suction. The crew cleans up and walks you through the finished installation.
You do not need to leave your home during the installation, though many homeowners prefer to step out during the drilling portion. The crew will need access to the basement or crawl space, the attic (in many cases), and the exterior wall where the pipe exits.
3. Step-by-Step Installation Process
Understanding each component helps you know what the crew is doing and why. Here is the breakdown of each major step in the installation.
Drill the Suction Point
A core drill cuts through the concrete slab to reach the soil beneath. In most homes, one suction point is enough. Larger homes or those with complex foundations may need two or more. The hole is typically 4 to 5 inches in diameter.
Install the PVC Pipe
Schedule 40 PVC pipe (3 or 4 inch diameter) is connected to the suction point and routed vertically through the home. The pipe carries radon gas from beneath the slab up and out of the house. Connections are sealed with PVC cement for airtight joints.
Mount the Radon Fan
The fan is the heart of the system. It creates the negative pressure that pulls radon from under your foundation. Fans are installed in the attic, garage, or on an exterior wall, never in a living space. They run 24/7 and use about as much electricity as a 75-watt light bulb.
Route the Exhaust
Above the fan, the pipe continues up and exhausts above the roofline. This ensures the radon gas is released well above where anyone could breathe it. The exhaust point must be at least 10 feet from windows, doors, or other openings.
Seal All Entry Points
Cracks in the slab, gaps around pipes, sump pit covers, and other foundation openings are sealed with specialized caulk or polyurethane sealant. This improves the system's efficiency by preventing radon from bypassing the suction point.
A manometer (a simple U-tube gauge) is installed on the pipe, usually in the basement or utility area. This gives you a visual indicator that the system is creating suction. If both sides of the liquid in the tube are level, something is wrong and you should call your installer.
4. What the Finished System Looks Like
Many homeowners worry about how a radon system will look. The good news is that a well-installed system is fairly discreet. Here is what you will see.
Interior
Inside your home, you will see a white PVC pipe (usually in a corner, closet, or utility area) running from the floor up through the ceiling. A small U-tube manometer will be mounted on the pipe at eye level. The suction point in the floor will be sealed and covered with a clean collar.
Exterior
On the outside, you will see a PVC pipe running up the side of the house to above the roofline. It is typically painted to match the home's exterior. If the fan is exterior-mounted, you will see a small unit attached to the pipe, usually tucked against the house.
Noise Level
Modern radon fans are quiet. You may hear a faint hum near the fan itself, but in most installations the sound is not noticeable from living areas. Attic-mounted fans are essentially silent from inside the home.
Energy Use
The fan runs continuously and uses roughly the same amount of electricity as a standard light bulb. Expect to add about $4 to $8 per month to your electric bill, depending on the fan model and your local electricity rates.
Installers who care about quality will take the time to make the system look clean. Pipes should be straight, properly supported with hangers, and routed to minimize visual impact. If a company rushes through and leaves a messy-looking installation, that is a sign of the overall quality of their work.
5. Post-Installation Testing
After the system is installed and running, you need to verify that it is actually working. This is not optional. A post-installation radon test confirms that levels have dropped below the EPA's action level of 4 pCi/L.
Wait at least 24 hours after the system is turned on before beginning the test. The EPA recommends 48 hours to allow radon levels to stabilize. Then run a standard short-term test (48 hours minimum) in the lowest livable area of your home.
A properly installed system should bring your radon levels down dramatically. Most systems achieve a 95% to 99% reduction. If your pre-mitigation level was 8 pCi/L, you should see post-mitigation results well below 2 pCi/L in most cases. If the post-test still shows levels above 4 pCi/L, your installer needs to come back and adjust the system.
What Good Results Look Like
After mitigation, most homes in the Atlanta area see radon levels drop to between 0.5 and 2.0 pCi/L. Some systems bring levels below 1.0 pCi/L. Any result below 4 pCi/L means the system is doing its job, though lower is always better.
Your installer should include a post-installation test as part of the service. If they do not offer one, ask why. Reputable companies want to prove their work is effective and will test as standard practice.
6. Your First Week with the System
Once the system is running, here is what to expect during the first week and what to keep an eye on going forward.
You might notice a slight change in air pressure. Some homeowners report that doors close a little more easily or that the house feels slightly different. This is the system creating negative pressure under the slab, which is exactly what it is supposed to do. The effect is subtle and most people stop noticing within a day or two.
Check the manometer daily for the first week. The U-tube gauge on your pipe should show uneven liquid levels, which means the system is pulling suction. Get familiar with what the normal reading looks like so you can spot a change later. If the levels go flat (even on both sides), the fan may have failed or there could be a blockage.
Listen for the fan occasionally. A healthy fan produces a steady, quiet hum. Rattling, grinding, or loud buzzing sounds may indicate a problem. New fans sometimes make slightly different sounds as they break in during the first few days, but anything that sounds mechanical or harsh deserves a call to your installer.
Do not turn the system off. The fan needs to run 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Radon is constantly being generated in the soil, and the system needs to continuously vent it. If you turn the fan off, radon levels will start rising within hours.
Warranty Information
Most radon mitigation companies offer a warranty on their installation, and fan manufacturers typically warrant their products for 5 years or more. Make sure you receive documentation that includes your warranty terms, the fan model and serial number, and contact information for service. Keep this in a safe place.
After your initial post-installation test confirms the system is working, the EPA recommends retesting every 2 years to make sure levels remain low. Ongoing system maintenance is minimal, but periodic checks keep you protected.
