If your home tested above 4 pCi/L, the EPA says you need to take action. The good news: radon mitigation is one of the most straightforward home improvements you can make. A professional system typically takes a day to install and reduces radon levels by 95% to 99%.
The less-good news: costs vary quite a bit depending on your home. A simple slab installation might run $1,200. A complicated crawl space job could hit $5,000. This guide will help you understand where your home falls in that range and what you should actually expect to pay in the Atlanta area.
Quick Cost Summary
- Sub-slab depressurization: $1,200 to $2,500 for most Atlanta homes
- Crawl space mitigation: $2,500 to $5,000 depending on size and condition
- Annual running cost: About $70 to $100 in electricity per year
- Fan replacement: Every 5 to 10 years, $400 to $800 installed
1. The Quick Answer
Nationally, most homeowners pay between $780 and $1,275 for radon mitigation, with the average landing around $1,030 according to HomeAdvisor. But that national average can be misleading for Atlanta homeowners.
The Georgia Attorney General's Consumer Protection Division puts the typical range for Georgia homeowners at $1,800 to $2,500. That lines up with what we see in the Metro Atlanta market, where homes tend to be larger and foundation types vary more than in other parts of the country.
Here is the honest breakdown: if you have a straightforward slab foundation in a standard-size home, you are looking at the lower end. If you have a crawl space, a large home, or a complicated foundation layout, expect to pay more. Most Atlanta homeowners end up somewhere in the $1,500 to $3,000 range.
2. Cost by System Type
The type of mitigation system you need depends almost entirely on your foundation. Here is what each one costs and when it is used.
Sub-Slab Depressurization (ASD)
This is the standard system for homes with concrete slab or basement foundations. A hole is drilled through the slab, PVC piping runs from beneath the foundation to the roofline, and a fan creates negative pressure that pulls radon from the soil before it enters your home.
- • Best for: Slab-on-grade and basement homes
- • Installation time: 4 to 8 hours
- • Effectiveness: 95% to 99% radon reduction
- • Most Metro Atlanta homes use this system
Sub-Membrane Depressurization
Used for homes with dirt-floor crawl spaces. A heavy-duty plastic membrane (at least 10 mil thick) is sealed over the crawl space floor. A pipe and fan system then draws radon from under the membrane and vents it outside. The higher cost comes from the labor involved in sealing the membrane properly.
- • Best for: Homes with crawl space foundations
- • Installation time: 1 to 2 days
- • Effectiveness: 94% to 97% radon reduction
- • Cost depends heavily on crawl space size and accessibility
Block-Wall Depressurization
Designed for homes with hollow block foundation walls. Radon can travel through the hollow cores of concrete blocks, so this system depressurizes the wall cavities to prevent radon from entering through the walls. Sometimes used in combination with sub-slab depressurization.
- • Best for: Homes with hollow-block basement walls
- • Installation time: 6 to 10 hours
- • Often combined with sub-slab for best results
Energy Recovery Ventilator (ERV)
Increases fresh air exchange to dilute radon. Not as effective as active depressurization on its own, but can be a useful supplement. Sometimes recommended when radon levels are only slightly above the action level and the homeowner also wants improved indoor air quality.
- • Best for: Supplemental reduction or mildly elevated levels
- • Also improves general indoor air quality
- • Higher ongoing energy costs than ASD systems
3. What Affects Your Price
Two homes on the same street can get very different quotes. Here is why.
Foundation Type
This is the single biggest cost factor. A slab foundation is the simplest and cheapest to mitigate. Basements cost a bit more if there are multiple foundation sections. Crawl spaces cost the most because of the membrane work involved.
Home Size and Layout
Larger homes or homes with complex footprints may need multiple suction points. Each additional suction point adds $300 to $700 to the total cost. A simple ranch home needs one point. A large two-story with a split foundation might need three or four.
Radon Level
Higher radon levels sometimes require a more powerful fan or additional suction points to achieve adequate reduction. A home at 5 pCi/L is a simpler fix than a home at 25 pCi/L, though both are very treatable.
Pipe Routing
The pipe from the suction point needs to exit through or alongside the roof. If the suction point is far from an exterior wall, or if the homeowner wants the pipe routed in a less visible way, the installation takes longer and costs more.
Accessibility
Can the technician easily access the slab or crawl space? Finished basements may require cutting through drywall. Tight crawl spaces take longer to work in. Both add to labor costs.
Fan Quality
Radon fans range from about $150 to $400 for the unit itself. Higher-end fans from brands like RadonAway or Festa are quieter and last longer. The fan choice affects both upfront cost and long-term maintenance.
4. Atlanta-Specific Pricing
Atlanta is not cheap for home services, and radon mitigation is no exception. But here is some context that helps explain the numbers.
Metro Atlanta sits on granite bedrock, especially in the northern counties. This granite geology is the reason radon levels tend to be elevated here in the first place. Counties like Cherokee, Forsyth, Gwinnett, and Cobb are all EPA Zone 1 (highest risk).
The foundation mix in Metro Atlanta is also different from other markets. You will find slab-on-grade homes in newer subdivisions, older homes with basements in places like Buckhead and Druid Hills, and crawl spaces scattered throughout. This mix means there is no single "typical" mitigation job here.
What We See in Metro Atlanta
These ranges reflect what homeowners actually pay in 2026 across Fulton, DeKalb, Cobb, Gwinnett, and surrounding counties. Your actual quote depends on the factors discussed above.
5. Ongoing Costs After Installation
The installation is the big expense. After that, a radon mitigation system is about as low-maintenance as home systems get.
Electricity
$70 - $100/yr
About the same as running a 75-watt light bulb 24/7. The fan runs continuously and should never be turned off.
Fan Replacement
$400 - $800
Every 5 to 10 years. Includes fan unit and labor. Higher-quality fans tend to last longer.
Retesting
$125 - $175
EPA recommends retesting every 2 years to verify the system is still working. Quick visual checks of the manometer can be done anytime.
The one thing you should check regularly is the U-tube manometer (or digital gauge) on your system. This small device shows whether the fan is creating proper suction. If the fluid levels are even or the gauge reads zero, your fan may need attention. Takes five seconds to check.
6. Is Mitigation Worth the Money?
This is the question behind the question, so let's address it directly.
Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States, responsible for an estimated 21,000 deaths per year according to the EPA. It is the number one cause of lung cancer among people who have never smoked. The EPA's action level of 4 pCi/L corresponds to roughly the same lung cancer risk as smoking half a pack of cigarettes per day.
From a purely financial perspective, a mitigation system that costs $2,000 and reduces your family's cancer risk is arguably the best money you can spend on your home. It also makes your home more attractive to future buyers. A documented, working mitigation system is a selling point, while a known radon problem without mitigation can kill a deal.
The Bottom Line
At $1,500 to $3,000 for most Atlanta homes, radon mitigation costs less than a single HVAC repair, less than a year of lawn care, and far less than most kitchen appliance packages. The system runs for decades, costs under $100 a year to operate, and eliminates a proven cancer risk from your home.
7. What the Installation Includes
Here is what a professional mitigation installation typically covers. If a company is not including all of these, ask why.
Site Assessment
The technician evaluates your foundation type, identifies the best suction point locations, and plans the pipe routing. This should happen before any work begins.
Core Drilling and Suction Point
A hole is drilled through the slab (or a pit created under the membrane) to access the soil or gravel beneath. This is the intake point for the system.
PVC Pipe Installation
3-inch or 4-inch PVC pipe is routed from the suction point, through or alongside the house, to above the roofline where radon is safely vented.
Fan Installation
The radon fan is installed in the pipe run, typically in the attic or on the exterior of the home. It creates the negative pressure that pulls radon out of the soil.
Sealing and Manometer
Cracks and gaps around the suction point are sealed. A U-tube manometer or digital gauge is installed so you can visually confirm the system is working at any time.
Post-Installation Testing
A follow-up radon test is conducted 24 to 48 hours after installation to verify the system reduced levels below 4 pCi/L. This test should be included or offered as an add-on.
8. How to Avoid Overpaying
Radon mitigation is a specialized field, and pricing is not always transparent. Here are some practical tips.
Get Multiple Quotes
The Georgia Attorney General's office recommends getting more than one written estimate. Two to three quotes will give you a good sense of the fair market price for your specific home. If one quote is dramatically lower than the others, ask what is being left out.
Ask About Certification
Look for companies whose technicians hold certification from NRPP (National Radon Proficiency Program) or NRSB (National Radon Safety Board). Georgia does not require state licensing for radon work, so national certification is the best indicator of competence and training.
Check What is Included
A good quote should clearly list: system design, all materials, installation labor, manometer, and warranty terms. Some companies include post-installation testing; others charge separately. Make sure you are comparing apples to apples.
Ask About the Warranty
Most reputable companies offer a warranty on their work and a separate manufacturer warranty on the fan. Ask how long each warranty lasts and what it covers. A 5-year warranty on workmanship is common.
Negotiate During Real Estate Transactions
If you are buying a home with high radon, you have leverage. It is common to ask the seller to pay for mitigation or provide a credit at closing. Most sellers would rather spend $2,000 on mitigation than lose a buyer. Read more in our guide to radon and real estate in Georgia.
